Known for rebellious street styles and bold imaginations that often blur the line between art and fashion, London Fashion Week exudes an attitude that’s young, fearless and super-charged energetically. The AW23 collections presented during LFW this season see some of the biggest, and most original, trends that you will be loving this fall.
Mould-breaking, city-inspired designs
Love her or hate her (designs), Mowalola is a designer/brand that you simply can’t ignore. Breaking Instagram as one of the most viewed shows during London Fashion Week — the show took place off-schedule at the basement of University of Westminster — even Snoop Dogg can’t resist posting a reel about it. Complementing the Marmite-esque, reimagined super-low-hung pants and the New York City-inspired styles are out-of-this-world face and body art created by celebrity makeup genius Isamaya Ffrench.
Ffrench, known for her audacious and innovative take on beauty and makeup, creates a mix of fake freckles all over the face, combined with LED-lights strategically placed on models’ faces and bodies to drive home the theme “Dark Web” as envisioned by Mowalola.
JW Anderson, on the other hand, pays homage to the contemporary dancer Michael Clark, whose work often intersects with fashion. For the AW23 collection, Anderson makes heavy reference to modern city living by reimagining styles from archives of both Clark’s and his own, including a dress prominently displaying Tesco logo and form-fitting pullovers with thought-provoking messages.
Soft coloring and textures
Romance is still trending, according to Susan Fang and Bora Aksu.
Fang, known for her ethereal styles and intricate, structured dresses made of ombré-colored fabric rosettes, put on a show that’s delightful to all senses. The beautifully constructed (and considerably more expansive compared to last season) collection is presented on models walking on a bed of dried rose petals, with floral-scented mist sprayed into the air via devices custom made by Fang’s father’s factory in China. Incorporating past-season’s leftover materials and utilizing 3D printing technology, Fang keeps pushing sustainable creativity whilst maintaining the brand’s signature aesthetics.
Bora Aksu takes a turn for the darker and more mysterious with the new season, and displays a collection that’s fresh, romantic, and whimsical — all with a childlike joyfulness weaved throughout. Enhancing his demi-couture craftsmanship, Aksu uses delicate embroidery and playful motifs to compliment the clean structuring and playful nature of his taffeta dresses and deliver the brand’s unique take on romance.
Return of the tailored sophistication
Her first season on schedule showing both accessories and ready to wear looks, Naza Yuzefi believes that the fashion industry is seeing a resurgence of understated luxury and refinement. Having founded her namesake brand in 2015, Yuzefi’s new season exudes an air of early fall that’s crisp, clean, as well as softly comforting. “Consumers are looking for pieces that are not only elegant, but also comfortable, and this trend is reflected in the use of muted colors and elevated denim.” Says of Yuzefi of her latest collection. “The combination of these elements creates an elevated ease and understated elegance that is perfect for the season.” The everyday pieces displayed during the show feature the brand’s signature, streamlined tailoring, with a notably gentle color palette including powder pink, earthy nude tones and dark grey — the last of which is used on the brand’s debut line of denim styles.
Palmer Harding’s collection for AW23 is inspired by the analogy of a seed planted, growing, transforming and eventually blossoming into its fully developed beauty — with layered fabrics carefully designed and tailored to resemble a flower in full bloom.
TOVE makes its runway debut this season at Senate House in London, with a line featuring sculptural forms and decadent textures that are balanced against refined, structured silhouettes, with hand-forged jewelry in collaboration with Completedworks — a designer jewelry label known for its contemporary aesthetics with high-end craftsmanship. Completedworks also showcased its new fall 2023 collection of designs during London Fashion Week, fusing historic references with modern styles.
Eudon Choi, on the other hand, continues to cultivate timeless staples that also feature elements of modern, luxe sportswear. Confident femininity is defined by Choi with relaxed shoulders and oversized, menswear-like silhouettes.
Elevated evening glam
David Koma serves again — against a blood red backdrop overlooking London’s sharp skyline. Fusing masculine influences with high-octane glamor native to 1930s’ vaudeville, Koma’s new season sees pieces fully charged with sexual energy, featuring asymmetric silhouettes, crystal-encrusted knitwear, fluffy mohair halter-neck mini dresses, and gowns embroidered with ombré sequins that cascade from transparent to opaque.
Christopher Kane’s fall collection takes an unexpected turn with inspiration coming from the working class environment that he grew up in — latex skirts and dresses with peplum hems, prints of layers upon layers of baby chicks and pink piglets — “Housewives, cleaners, barmaids all play a significant role.” The result? An unassuming but highly wearable and elevated line of wardrobe must-haves for the fall.
Dilara Findikoglu’s show during London Fashion Week was one of the hottest ticket to score. With A-list clients like Bella Hadid and Lorde under her belt, the Turkish-British designer’s new AW23 collection cements her position as a true creative in fashion. Appropriately named Not A Man’s Territory, the fall line sees designs that dance between barely-there, lingerie-inspired outfits and armour-like dresses embellished with dining knives and hair clips — all with a vulnerability that’s powerfully feminine.
Di Petsa, the Greek-born designer known for her “wet dresses”, has debuted at London Fashion Week like no other — an emotional dance/ritual performed by the designer herself completed with the sound of her own voices and breaths, alongside a stunning runway show where a model walked down with burning sage.
The dark age
After a colorful spring summer season, AW23 sees a number of designer taking a dark turn — literally. Chet Lo, known for his innovative design in popping colors, showcases a polished look for his new collection. Signifying the designer’s radical transformation, where he explores new depths to emerge more whole, the collection dabbles on pain and aggression that usually comes with maturation and growth. With black taking the center stage, makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench worked with Lo in creating a series of clean yet rebellious looks, including blue and red-colored tongues that broadcast rage, discomfort, and angst.
The dark palette is also seen in runway shows at Edward Crutchley and KKW by Kay Kwok, with Crutchley focusing on relaxed silhouettes and the layering of a variety shades of greys and blacks, and Kwok incorporating and transforming sculptural art into wearable pieces.
Upcycled and sustainably timeless
Taking inspirations from the world’s obsession with AI technologies, Romanian designer Ancuca Sarca presents a collection that celebrates the brand’s key styles through a retro-futuristic lens. Sarca introduces partnership with Lee® to deliver two form-fitting looks out of deadstock denim: bralettes, detachable sleeves and a deadstock faux shearling trim. This season has also seen denim being applied, for the first time, to backless pumps and clogs from repurposed denim jackets. With an unwavering commitment to upcycling and sustainability, whether through the use of vintage quilted nylon jackets on boots that were designed to withstand alpine temperatures, or pointed-toe heels decorated with end-of-roll faux furs, Sarca’s sports-meet-vintage designs are set to trend continuously this fall.
Wrapped-up in style
Showcasing for the first time during London Fashion Week, ethical label Jakke displays a collection inspired by Power Dressing — in an office. Known for its animal-friendly and cruelty-free faux furs, Jakke’s AW23 range introduces new skirts in various midis and mini silhouettes as well as belted shirts. With a color palette notably more muted compared to previous seasons, earthy tones of chocolate and burgundy are incorporated to go with the more masculine-leaning styles.
With an aim to redefine cashmere for a new generation by using bright colors and exaggerated techniques, Chau Rising’s aesthetic is sensitive and expressive — as ispired by the organic tactility of cashmere. A newcomer to London Fashion Week, Chau Rising’s extensive LFW debut collection on the finale day showcased a range of designs that are perfect for layering this fall.